I just read today's Telegraph review of the Sportsman - possibly the most patronising piece I've seen this year... I know it's early days, but it'll take some beating.
Check it for yourself.
Starting off with casual and dismissive comments about Kent as a place to go through rather than to, and Seasalter's apparent inbreeding, there's a great review as far as the food is concerned, although the paper napkin seemed to have caused a little bit of a problem.
Still at £100 each for the tasting menu lunch with wine for the reviewer and his girlfriend, this was reported as "astonishingly good prices". That'll be planet London then... grr.
I expect he want to be AA Gill, but doesn't quite have the wit for it. Still, the food sounded nice, as long as there's no food critics at the next table. it was nice last time I was there, and we escaped with a bill less than half of this one. We must have been doing it wrong.